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I shared this dolman sleeve shirt tutorial on Me Sew Crazy as part of her New Year’s ReSewLution Series.  It was meant to introduce an idea of just taking a shirt you like and use it as a starting point to make a new shirt with different elements.  Since then, I have had a lot of questions on how one would go about using a regular long sleeve shirt to make something similar to the shirt I made.  It really would be pretty simple.  There is only one back panel, and one front panel, with no sleeve to set – so this is perfect for a beginner.  Catch me after the jump and I will show you how!

Dolman Sleeve Shirt Tutorial

Supplies:

• all your sewing stuff
• a long sleeve shirt that fits nicely (or just keep in mind the parts you don’t like about it)
• fabric – the type will depend on the shirt you start with – just make sure it is similar, or adjust fit to compensate

Like I said, the initial idea was to use a shirt you love and then switch it up a bit by adding a few details you like.  For this tutorial, I am just going to talk about how you can use a regular long sleeve shirt to make a Dolman sleeve shirt.

You can see in the photo above the general shape of the sleeve.  It starts angling away from the body at the ribs to make a fairly large sleeve.  Take your shirt lay it down on a double layer of the fabric if you are wanting the front and back the same (we will adjust the cut of the neckline in the second cut).  If you are wanting to have more of a cowl neckline like my shirt, just lay it on one layer of fabric.

If you want, take a pen and draw the shape out before you cut it out. You could even start with a paper piece, but I am far too impatient for that .

Cut around the perimeter of the shirt, making sure to angle out at the ribs, and then slowly tapering down the length of the sleeve.  For the top of the sleeve you should be able to follow the cut of the shirt you are using, just follow the angle on the underside.

For the neckline if you are cutting two layers, just follow the cut of the back of the shirt, and then cut the front panel separate to be the shape you want.  You may want to hold the front panel up to you to determine that.   I left a little length on my cut.  You can skip the next two parts if you are ready to sew.

If you are aiming for the cowl neckline, you have to get a bit creative.  Lay down the second layer of fabric.  I just gathered it up at the top like shown in the picture.

Next I just took the back panel and carefully placed it over the gathered top where I wanted the neckline to be, paying attention to where the shoulder seams would meet. Then just cut around it to make the front panel.

I pinned at the shoulder to make sure the front kept the shape.  At this point I only had 15 minutes invested and that is with taking pictures – not bad!  Now it’s time to sew it up.

You don’t normally see all those jagged edges on my projects, but that was part of my New Year’s ReSewLution, to loosen up a bit…feel free to straighten yours .

I started at the neckline on top, down the length of the sleeve on both sides. Then I sewed at the waist up the underside of the sleeve on both sides

Now is the time to try it on and decide where you need to alter it.  I have one sleeve that somehow had a longer length, but decided to ultimately make them 3/4 sleeve length anyways.  And though I wanted more length on the bottom, I have a bit too much so I cut some off the bottom too.

If you are going to make any cuts after you have sewn, just stitch a little back and forth right on the seam where you want to trim, then cut under that stitch.  This will ensure you don’t lose the seam.

I adjusted those things, left the hems unfinished (the joys of knit!) and voila’!  A new shirt in thirty minutes!  And I really do love it.  It hides my upper arms that aren’t quite my favorite, the way it gathers at the waist is slimming.

There are so many things you can do with this concept, as the sleeves are super simple to pull off, just have fun with it!

If you have any questions about the shape, fabric choice or anything else – just leave them in the comments and I’ll be happy to answer them there.

Lately I have been getting a lot of emails and comments with pictures of projects readers have made using my tutorials.  It makes my day every single time.  I need to be better about sharing those projects here, and have a plan for that – but I had to share this one really quick.

Valerie from The Crafty Classroom made the funnest interactive bag using my tutorial for a 15 Minute Fat Quarter Drawstring Bag (aka the easiest bag ever).  She added a peek-a-boo window with fun numbers, and then a pocket with fishes on the outside.  This is the best gift ever!  She was aiming to be the favorite Aunt, and I think she has it in the bag (sorry, had to do it)! She provides all the details on how she did it, so run on over and check it out.

A big thank you to everyone that has been sending us pictures and leaving comments, they are a big part of what keeps us motivated and inspired.

I have almost completed the new design of TMH, and one of things left is a showcase of your pictures from projects made using tutorials here on TMH.  We will be using our Flickr account to do this.  Be sure to upload your pictures and leave a link to your blog, or Facebook account where everyone can go check it out!

*Update*  I posted a detailed tutorial for the Dolman Sleeve Shirt Here.

The lovely Jessica from Me Sew Crazy invited me to be a part of her New Years ReSewLution series, and I jumped right on it as I had a few things I was trying to commit to this year.

One of which was to sew more for myself, and then share here. All I have to say is all those style bloggers make this whole modeling thing look easy. I was trying my hardest to channel my inner Disney, but man – it’s going to take some practice!  Poor Suzanne was patient with me, I am not a big fan of being the one in front of the lens, I much prefer to be pressing the button!

Anyhoo, do you like the shirt? Come on over to Me Sew Crazy to see all the details! While you’re there be sure to check out everyone’s ReSewlution projects, Jessica had an amazing line up and I was honored to be a part of it. And if you are one of our sewing enthusiast readers and have not yet been introduced to Jessica’s sewing haven – you’re in for a treat!

Do you like to make a little something for you friends, sister, or mom for Valentine’s Day?  These little heart sachets are perfect for just that.  You’ll never guess what’s in them…just don’t eat it!  You can make them any size you want and you only need a few things to make them – find the full tutorial here!

In other news…friends, I finally got my sewing machine out.  Since we have moved into this little apartment, there has been no where for me to sew.  You could say I have been a little hard to live with .  So after reading a post I wrote years ago, I took matters into my own hands.  I went down to Lowes, bought myself  a little folding table and chair.  I am sure when my husband gets home I will hear “you bought another table”.  I am thinking having a happy wife for the price of a movie and popcorn will be worth it – at least that is what I will tell him!

So stay tuned!  I am so excited, I have so many things I can’t wait to share. Also, thank you so much for all the pictures I have been receiving of projects you have made from my tutorials.  It quite literally makes my day.  Keep them coming!

Talk soon, I am off to get some sewing finished!

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It has been a while since we have had a good ‘ole re-purposing project, no?  They are kind of my favorite – less pressure if you screw up .  What I love most about this idea is that it helps tackle my ever growing scrap fabric basket.  Plus, they’re cute, quick, and easy.  I made the pink pajama bottoms from a knit shirt, and the brown pair from a pillowcase, and some cute scraps I just couldn’t part with.  I ended up loving them so much, I used the same concept for my kid’s Christmas jammies.  I will have to snap a picture of them and add to the post when I get a chance.  Onto the tutorial, catch me after the jump!

Fabric Topped Pajama Pants Tutorial

Supplies:

• Fabric (I used scrap fabric and an old shirt and pillowcase)
• all your sewing stuff
• 3/4 – 1 inch elastic
• pair of pants that fit well as a guide for pattern

Instructions:

If you are just starting out sewing, I have a sewing tips directory that will help you with any terms or techniques you are not familiar with.

Here’s a little tip: when repurposing clothing for sewing, use the elements of the garment that you can to make your life easy. I have all sorts of sewing tutorials showing how to do this, and in today’s project I used the hem of the shirt as the hem for my pant legs.

Place two layers of fabric on a cutting surface and then fold in half like shown in image above.

Now take the pants you are using for your guide and turn them inside out, fold in half and place on the folded edge of the fabric as shown.  Take into account how you will be sewing them up.  I didn’t need to hem the bottom of mine, but the pants I was using were too short for my little one, so I made sure that I left a couple inches at the bottom.  If you need to hem the bottom of you pants, make sure to leave that allowance at the bottom as well.

Now following the pants as a guide, cut out the pieces.  For the top, you just want to use your eyes to decide where you want the fabric top to meet the bottom.  I wanted it to hit just below the hips, so that is where I cut.  Write down the amount of inches you left at the top, you will need that.  I had four inches that I needed for the top.

Now you should have two pieces.  If you don’t have the legs hemmed yet do that now.

Now take the scrap fabric and cut it to match the length of the top of the pant legs like shown, and then make sure that you have enough height to account for the fold over for the elastic casing.  I could have used a little more, but my fabric piece was just a little short..I rolled with it.

Now place the fabric so that is lines up with the top edge of the pant leg, right sides together and pin.

Sew the two together, and then finish the seam with a zigzag stitch, or serger. Repeat on the other pant leg.

Press the seam up towards the top and then topstitch along the upper edge to lock the seam into place.

Now fold one pant leg with the right sides together and sew up the inside seam like illustrated with the dotted line.  Repeat on the second leg. You will want to finish the seams if you are not using knit.

Next turn one pant leg right side out and tuck inside the pant leg that you left right side in.  You will line up the inseams and the top, then sew where the dotted line indicates.  Finish any seams you need to.

Now turn them right side out and they should look like this.

Fold over the top edge a 1/4 inch and press, and then again as much as needed to allow the elastic you are using to fit in the casing, and press.

Then sew right along the bottom edge (mine is on the inside) to make the casing, leaving a two inch opening in the back to thread the elastic through.

Take the elastic and pin a safety pin to the end.  Insert the end through the opening in the back and then thread the elastic through.

Using a zigzag stitch, sew the ends of the elastic together, then sew up the opening in the back. You’re finished!

See, there are those hems I didn’t have to do.

I hope you find this useful, and I would love to see any pics if you try it!

Hope everyone has a great weekend,

Destri

Linked to the fabulous Skip To My Lou

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Does anyone else have a habit of buying jeans that are too long with the intention of having them hemmed, only to leave them sitting in the drawer for months? If you come in under 5′ 6″ I am guessing you’re nodding yes (or at least that is what I will tell myself to feel better).  Especially if you love trouser style jeans like I do. I love that you can dress them up or down making them the most versatile denim I own – but they seem to always be super long.  I am happy to report I found a no-sewing-machine-required solution that actually looks great, and not like a hack job.  It’s super easy and really quick.  Like I have a date in an hour and I want to wear these pants quick.  So dig out those wide leg trousers or slacks and meet me after the jump.

Hemming Wide Leg Trouser Pants Without A Sewing Machine Tutorial

I had scored these super cute jeans at a boutique store for $20.  That was over a year ago.  I actually took them out about six months ago to hem when I found this great tutorial for using a blind hem (which is my favorite hem for these pants), only to find that my machine doesn’t have a blind hem stitch.  So back in the drawer they went.  Then one day I found my old stitch witchery. Have you ever used that stuff?  I used to use it all the time…like even made pillows and curtains with it! Crazy, I know.  That is when my husband decided to buy me a sewing machine .  A light bulb went off and I pulled out my trouser pants and went to work.  I decided if it didn’t pan out, I could just do a straight stitch and be done with it.  I am happy to report it worked like a dream.  They washed up great and it took all of thirty minutes to do.  I actually like they way it turned out so much, that I don’t think I would use a machine even if I had a blind stitch!  Let me show you why…

Here is the original hem on the pants I will be using in the tutorial.  They were hemmed with a  straight stitch, which required a a double fold at the hem.  This creates bulk and a little bulge where the edge had been folded over. Even without being washed before, you can see where this fold is.  After a few washes that bulky fold stands out like a sore thumb.

Here is an example of trouser jeans that were hemmed with a blind stitch.  They finished the edge and then hemmed, requiring no fold, equaling no bulk.  Most high quality slacks are hemmed this way. So this is what we are going to recreate today – only without a sewing machine.

Supplies:

• hot iron and board
• needle and thread to match jeans
• super weight stitch witchery
• scissors or rotary cutter with mat
• a seam ripper is handy if you have one, but you can get by without one

The stitch witchery can be found in the sewing section at Walmart, or at any craft store like Hobby Lobby or Micheal’s.  And you know those little sewing kits that come in a hotel room?  Make sure to take them, they always have a blue thread that matches denim.  Just a tip!

Instructions:

First things first, you have to deconstruct the original hem.  I used my seam ripper, but if you don’t have one of those a little pair of scissors will work.  To get started just turn the seam up, and find the interior stitch, then cut it.  Pull a little and cut the threads as they appear.

Once you get it started, it pretty easy, just pull the seam and the threads will be exposed and then cut.  Just be careful not to cut the denim.

Now, that felt good.  One step closer to wearing the jeans we bought a year ago.  We just need to figure out what length to hem them.

A few things to consider:  This style of jeans is normally worn long, meaning they should be almost brushing the ground.  Usually you can just see the tip of the shoe you are wearing peeking out.  Will you be wearing them with heels, or flats?  I have jeans for both. I decided I would be wearing this pair with heels and pumps.  So I used the pumps when determining length, and then hoped for the best when it came to wearing them with heels.

With the shoes on, try on the pants and fold to the length you will be wearing them at.  You can make a mark just on the inside, or put in a pin like I did to mark.

Now take them off and lay on a flat surface, smoothing out the legs for cutting.  You will cut about 2½ inches below the fold mark you made.  This will allow for a nice weight at the bottom of the pant leg when finished.  Following the same angle as the original hem cut off the excess length.  I used a rotary cutter, but still didn’t get a straight line, no worries, we can always get a straight fold in the next step .  Don’t stress yourself out about it!

If you have a sewing machine, you can do a quick zigzag to finish off the raw edge.  I left mine raw and have washed them a bunch with no problems.

Next turn the pants inside out.  Fold the pants leg to the length you marked or determined you wanted and iron with steam.  I held my pants up to make sure the legs were the same length, and the angle at the bottom looked good before moving on to the next step.

Cut a long piece of stitch witchery and place just under the edge of the cuff as shown in the picture.  You want it as close to the raw edge’s edge as possible (did that make sense?).  This will bring any fray to a minimum.  Iron per the packaging instructions.  I had to iron mine a tad more, it will depend on the weight of the fabric.  When you have went all the way around the leg, trim the stitch witchery to the length needed and finish the ironing. Repeat on the other pant leg.

Once the seam has cooled, pull on it to make sure it has adhered completely. There were a few places where mine pulled apart a some.  Iron those places a bit more if you find any.  Turn right side out.

Now to strengthen the seam up a bit, we are going to add a few tacking stitches to the inner and outer seams at the cuff.  Just take the needle up through the inside of the pant leg right at the seam as shown.  I made a few stitched and then ended on the inside with a secure knot.

For the inside seam, just pull the needle underneath the fold and then back under it like shown.

Viola!  Now put them on and go on that hot date..or go and find the kids you have neglected whilst hemming your jeans.  I found mine under the table smashing Kix into the carpet. Good times.

A few notes: I didn’t pre-wash my pants, they had enough stretch in them I knew they wouldn’t shrink much. If you’re worried, wash before hand. The stitch witchery feels a bit stiff until washed. After the first wash, it will bend and feel feel just like the denim.

As for care, I washed mine inside out like I always do and the seam held up beautifully.  I had one long stray string after the second wash that I trimmed but other than that the fray from the raw edge was minimal.

If you have a pair of jeans that are straight leg or bootcut, here is a great tutorial for how to hem jeans and keep the original hem.

Hope all my short friends find this useful!  If you have any questions leave them in the comments and I will answer them there.

Happy hemming,

Destri

Who’s all caught up on their shopping and Holiday duties, raise your hand (show off ).  Well here’s a project to keep you busy until the big day.  I made this Christmas Pennant Banner at my sisters house last year, and I finally found it in the depths of my boxes a few days ago.  I haven’t had anything to hang on my door, and the pennant fit just right, I think it’s a nice alternative to a wreath – fun and festive.  I think it would be cute for Valentines Day too, just use XOXO and take the bells off the bottom.

My sister hung her pennant in her dining room over her windows, so really you can use any word or phrase to make the banner any size you like.

Are you thinking of the possibilities? Oh good. you can find the free pdf of the festive alphabet and full tutorial over on Create Hope Designs. Oh, and they have a big giveaway going on too!

Now if you’ll excuse me, I can’t quite include myself in that I’m all finished with my shopping category and I am beginning to panic! Ack!  I did finally get a tree up though, that counts for something, right?

~Destri

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After months of editing and sewing I finally have the Central Park Swing Coat ready for your sewing pleasure!  This little jacket started from a sketch I drew in my little big idea book last year.  I started playing around with drafting the pattern months ago, and four samples later I am pretty much in love with it.  It is so fun to sew and the possibilities are endless. My favorite part is that it is reversible, which makes it not only super versatile but quick and easy to sew with no seams to finish (no serger needed!).  With no button holes or zippers this is a perfect project for beginners too.  As is it will fit 3t-5t but it would be super simple to adjust to different sizes, and we’ll go over that in the end.

(tutorial for Ruffle Cuff Pants as shown)

As for wearing it, the coat has become a favorite.  It fits nicely over anything she wears and allows for comfortable play without any bulk. 

 You could add one big button, or two smaller buttons like shown above for a variation or just keep it simple with an elastic cord to pull over a button.  Like I said, there are so many things you can do with this pattern.  I can’t wait to see what you do with it!  That’s the best part, seeing what fabrics people use, seeing how they switch things up and especially seeing the little ones wearing them.  It’s like seeing my doodles from a little book come to life – makes my day!

Catch me after the jump for the pattern and tutorial!

Do not let all the pictures and text scare you off, this really is a simple pattern.  The tutorial is very detailed, as in I cover every step. I want any skill level to be able to make it.  I provided a print option for the tutorial at the bottom.  Using it you can delete text and photos you don’t need to save on ink.  You can even save the tutorial as a pdf to your computer.

So print it off and get sewing!  Add your own personal touch, try it in a tweed (I’m dying to see it in a tweed!), maybe a silk for a Holiday coat to cover that pretty dress…surprise me!

Central Park Swing Coat Pattern And Tutorial

Please read through the tutorial before you cut and sew. There are a few things you need to know first.  Seam allowance is included on all pattern pieces.  You will use a 3/8 inch seam allowance throughout unless noted.

Suggested Fabric and Requirements:

You will need 1 yard for each side, so 2 yards total.  You can get by with 3/4 yard for each, just don’t make any mistakes!  If you are making a 5t and would like it to be a longer length you will need at least 2 yards total.

I used a poly suede and quilting weight cotton for all the coats I have made.  Twill, tweed, corduroy, denim, linen and linen blends, would all work great too. If you are using a heavier fabric make sure to use the appropriate needle.

Supplies:

• all your sewing stuff
• matching thread
• button(s) or some sort of clasp
• hot iron and board

 Instructions: Printing the PDF pattern and pattern assembly:

There are ten pages total and you will want to print with no scaling or select “none”.  Click here for a direct link to download and print. This is my preferred method. Or for those of you printing at the library and can’t down load (I’ve been there!) you can print the Pattern Pieces Through Google Docs here. On the first page I provided a 1 inch mark to make sure that the pattern printed the correct size.

I marked the front and back panels with A and B, and there are four pieces for each.  Just line the paper edges up like shown and tape.

If there is a break in the pattern line like shown above, that’s okay.  Just line up the paper edges and your set. Do not attempt to match the lines up. Assemble both the front and back panels and cut out.  Then cut out the sleeve and yoke pattern pieces.

Cutting:

First look at the fabric to see if there is a specific direction you need to pay attention to.

Fold the fabric in half and pin back panel pattern piece on the fold where shown and cut.  You will need one back panel from each fabric.

Then with the fabric still folded in half (so there are two layers with wrong sides together), pin the front panel to the fabric and cut, this will ensure that you have a left and right panel. Then repeat so that you have two front panels from each fabric giving you four front panels total.  You will cut the yoke pattern in the same manner, giving you two right and two left of each fabric.

For the sleeve, cut two from each fabric.

Assembly: We will start with the front panels.  Sew a gathering stitch (longest stitch on my machine with no back stitching) 1/4 inch from the edge (line fabric edge with presser foot) across the top of each panel like shown.  Now pull the bobbin thread and gather it to match the length of the length of the bottom side of the yoke.  You can see in the picture that I kept my gathers to the center, and leaving an inch at the edges, I will show you why in a minute.

Pin the yokes to the front panels with the right sides together, keeping in mind that there is one for the left and one for the right panel.  The shortest side of the yoke should line up with the arm hole, and the longer side to the front opening.  When you pin just work the gathered fabric to bend around the curve of the yoke and adjust the gathering to match the length, still keeping the gathering towards the center.

Now with your stitch set back to normal, sew each of them together with a 3/8 seam allowance. Don’t forget to back stitch!

Once you have all four sewn, iron the seam up like shown in the picture.

Now top stitch along the bottom edge of the yoke on all four panels.  I like to use a slightly longer stitch length for a nice look, and then press with an iron to set the stitch.

In this picture you can see how the gathers are focused to the center.  It will make the panels pucker in the right place when all sewn up.

Now were going to sew the panels together.  Take one of the front panels (working with the same fabric) and pin it with the right sides together to the back panel lining up the sides as shown.  Sew up the side and then repeat with the other panel on the other side.  Then repeat with the second fabric.

Press all the seams open like shown.

Now lay one side down on a flat surface with the right side up.  If you are plan on adding elastic cord or tube made with the fabric to pull over a button you would add that now.  Just make a loop and lay it on the yoke towards the top with the loop facing in and the ends lining up with the edge and pin.

Then lay the other side on top with the right side down lining up all the edges and pin.

Before you sew it up you need to decide where you are going to turn the coat out.  If you want to top stitch all around the perimeter of the coat when finished then I would leave a five inch opening along the bottom of the coat.  In this case when you close the opening the stitch would go unnoticed. That is the way I did it with the blue floral coat.

For the suede coat I decided not to add a top stitch around the perimeter so I opted to leave the neckline on the back panel open to turn out.  Either method works great, it just depends on the look you want.

Now starting at the inside corner of the yoke by the arm hole, sew along the entire outer edge, except for the arm holes – leave them open!  If you are leaving the neckline open, just sew away. If you are leaving 5 inches at the bottom open, don’t forget!

When you get to corners just lift your foot 3/8 before the edge and rotate the fabric.

Now clip your corners so they turn out nicely.

Turn the coat out, using a pointy object to get the corners out all the way.  Be careful not to break the stitch.  Press all the seams.  I like to first lightly press the seam open like shown..

Especially where the yokes meet and then press them flat, you just get a more crisp edge that way.

If you left the neckline open turn the edges in 1/4 inch and sew them together, still leaving the armholes open.

Now the sleeves, almost finished!  Take one of each fabric (so the fabric won’t match) and lay them right sides together.   Sew the outer edge (the longest edge) with a regular stitch with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.  Then sew the inner edges (the neckline, smaller) and sew a gathering stitch 1/4 inch as well.

Gather the inner edge so that when you stretch it flat it measures about 4 inches.  Again, keep the gathers towards the center.

Now sew along the gathered edge with a 3/8 seam allowance.  As you sew make sure that the gather aren’t being pushed out, or you will end up with no gathers.  Just push them along with your fingers, lifting the foot a bit if you have to.

Now turn out the sleeve and press the outer edge flat.   You can top stitch along both edges if you like.  I did on the one, but opted not to on the suede coat.  If you top stitch on the gathered edge make sure to keep it gathered.

Working on the coat again, turn the edges of the armhole in about a 1/3 of an inch (little more than a 1/4) and press.

By my third attempt I learned it was easiest to turn the edges under about 80% of the way down on each side and pin,

Then fold over and line up arm holes, then turn in that last little bit at the seams and press.

They should look like this when your done. Lined up on the edge and at the seam.

I pinned all around the armhole, and especially at the seams so that the edges stay turned in.

Now take the sleeve and slip the ends in between the two layers about a 1/2 inch. One end of the sleeve will go into the front panel, one end into the back panel.  You’ll have to take out the pins to do this, then pin it again.  Work the neckline edges to make sure they are lined up nicely.

Now just sew all the layers together right along the edge.  Make sure that the stitch is getting all the layers. The inside panel, sleeve, and back panel.  Take it slow and pay attention. 

I had one spot where my stitch missed the edge of the inside panel, I just un-stitched that portion fixed it making sure to catch the original stitch in my back stitching.  Repeat on the back, and then the other sleeve.

If you are not top stitching around the perimeter you’re finished!  If you left the bottom open when turning out, press the edges in to match the bottom stitch.  Starting at the top of the yoke on one side, with a little longer stitch length sew all around the perimeter just along the edge ending at the other side at the top of the yoke. That stitch should close up the opening on the bottom.

That’s it!  Easy right?

All you have to do now is add the fastening method of your choice.  If you added a loop to pull over to a button, just sew on the button. I added a fun hook and claw type clasp and just sewed it to the suede side with a needle and thread.  I bought mine at Hanckock’s fabric. Or make your button holes and button if that is the way you decided to go.

Then slip it on them, stand back, and admire your handy work!

Then let them go to see it in action! I hope you have fun with this pattern, I worked really hard on it and am pretty proud with how it turned out.  You’re officially a pattern tester if you make one so be sure to come back and leave a comment with any feed back. I will add a flickr group so we can see everyone’s work.

 *Edit* The Free PDF Pattern is Now Available Here!

It’s coming!  It is so close it’s killing me! I know I keep saying that, but sheesh this up and moving in a week has put a damper on the situation.  On the editing that is, not the excitement! I am making sure I cover everything so that anyone can make this little jacket.

Every time I look at it I see even more possibilities.  Oh the things you could do with this pattern.  I am thinking a silk jacket for Christmas might be in order.  I am also thinking I love it so much I have to make a long sleeve pattern to go with it.

It will fit 3t-5t as is, but would be simple to adjust for larger or smaller sizes.  It’s perfect for beginners too – no zippers, no button holes (unless you want to), not even one seam to finish.

Oh I am excited!  You guys will have fun with this one, I can’t wait to see what you do with it.

Am taking a break from editing for a girls night with Suzanne (wahoo!), and then hope to have the full tutorial with pattern up tomorrow.

Oh, one last thing….IT’S FREE!

Stay tuned!

~Destri

It’s beginning to look a lot…..Okay, I won’t finish that verse, but with all the festive stuff floating around the internet one can’t help but get excited .  I am one of those who will listen to Christmas music starting now through the New Year and not tire from it.  It makes me want to dig out my sewing machine and get a start on the pajamas and slippers I have planned for my kiddos. Not just yet though.  I’ll show you why in a second.  First I want to introduce you to the cutest Santa Sack Advent Calendar I made last year.

They are small enough to fit in the palm of your hand, yet big enough to stuff quite a few treats in them – and so so easy. They look super cute hung across the length of a mantle or even hung on the wall.  Santa Sack Advent Tutorial. I can’t wait to dig mine out!

Now on to the sneak peak..

It’s a short sleeve swing coat!  I am so excited to just get it posted so I can show you!  I was tempted to put the first draft pattern up, but there were a few things that were bugging me, so I refrained and have played around with it a bit more. The jacket shown is the second one I made, the first being in a muslin.  The best thing about it is that it is reversible.  So you can have a pattern on one side, and a solid on another. Gives you more options! Ooooo, I can’t wait.  I am pretty proud of this one.

I just need to finish up the final coat, edit photos, scan the pattern, and write up the tutorial.  Shooting for Saturday, we’ll see.  After that I hope to have a bunch of pattern testers!!

So how about you?  Started on any Christmas sewing?  Leave a link!

~Destri